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This
trip begins at the town of Orangeville and takes you through the
communities of Crombie, Shelburne, Proton Station, Eugenia,
Kimberley, and Griersville. You will pass through the counties
of Dufferin and Grey, travel along the Toronto and Sydenham
Road, see the last remaining section of the Old Mail Road, and
look for traces of the old Toronto, Grey, and Bruce Railway.
In
the early 1800s, if you wanted to travel to Meaford from
Orangeville, you had two ways to do it: you could walk or, if
you had enough money, you could travel by horse, cart, or
carriage. In any case, the road you would use would be the
Toronto and Sydenham Road (T&S Road). At Flesherton, you could
leave the T&S Road and work your way across country toward the
Old Mail Road, which would take you to Meaford. Later on, you
could travel to Flesherton by rail using the Toronto, Grey and
Bruce (TG&B) Railway, which roughly paralleled the T&S Road. The
T&S Road eventually became Highway 10 and the TG&B Railway
became part of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR).
The
best time of the year for this trip is in the Fall when the
Beaver Valley becomes a riot of Fall colour. As you drive north
along County Road 13 toward Kimberley, the hillside across the
valley on the left is a picture. However, if you want to see
Eugenia Falls at its best, go in April when the water level is
high and the leaves have not grown to obscure the view.
Update: The winds of
progress have blown away the Perfect House. Yet another heritage
building has disappeared. It wasn't very pretty and it was only
half of what it used to be but now it has gone forever. The same
winds have given us a new forest―not of trees but of windmills. The new forest of windmills lies between Shelburne and Dundalk. You can't miss it!
Starting the trip—Orangeville
Description of Orangeville
Leave Orangeville going west on County Road 109 (Highway 9).
As
you drive out of Orangeville, just before you pass Tim Horton's,
you cross railway tracks; these replaced the narrow gauge tracks
of the old TG&B Railway. The section of tracks going south from
here is now part of the Orangeville Brampton Railway and is a
last working reminder of the old TG&B Railway.
Continue along County Road 109 (Highway 9).
On
the right, just before the junction with C Road, once stood the
Perfect House. This intersection used to be the settlement of
Springbrook and had a hotel, the Springbrook Hotel, on the
northeast corner of the intersection. It was shaped like an
inverted capital T with the cross-stroke lying parallel and,
unfortunately, close to Highway 9. This part of the hotel
contained the bar, dining room, and some bedrooms, but was
demolished in 1929. The rest of the building was still there
until recently. In 1874, the hotel was owned by Robert
and Elizabeth Perfect and was known as the Perfect House.
But now it has gone!
Perfect
House (half of it anyway!)
At the second set of traffic lights, turn right onto Dufferin
Road 11.
This
road will take you directly into the centre of Shelburne. Just
after you turn onto Dufferin Road 11, you will pass near Fraxa
Junction, where the two parts of the TS&B Railway diverged, one
to go north to Owen Sound, the other to go west toward Lake
Huron. Nothing of the junction is visible today.
At
the intersection of Dufferin 11 and the 20th Sideroad is the
community of Crombie. At one time the TG&B Railway had a flag
stop station, known as Crombie's Station, located just west and
north of the intersection. If people wanted to stop a train, they
waved a green and white flag. You can see the railway station in
the Dufferin County Museum & Archives at the junction of Airport
Road and Highway 89. The station was built in 1882.
Crombie's
Station
Just
north of Crombie, the railway crossed the road again. On the
right, watch for the farm that was next to the track of the
former railway line: Trackside Farm.
Further along, on the left past the 25th Sideroad, there is an
old single-room schoolhouse, now a private house. This
schoolhouse was SS 6 Amaranth, also known as the Coleridge
School, and was opened in 1880. It has two doors: the north door
was for girls and the south door for boys. In those days, boys
and girls were supposed to be kept separate. SS stands for
section school. Section schools were supposed to have at least
15 pupils from within a 2-3 mile radius of the school.
SS
6 Amaranth, the Coleridge School
Continue north until you come to the T-junction at Main Street
in Shelburne.
(Note: do not follow Dufferin 11 when it turns to the right in
Shelburne.) Just before you turn left onto Main Street, notice
the mural on the wall of the building at the southwest corner of
the intersection. It depicts the Shelburne Station of the old
TG&B Railway. Across the road on the southeast corner of the
intersection is a historic marker describing the founding of
Shelburne.
Description of Shelburne
Shelburne
Mural
Drive west along Highway 89 for about 6 km then turn right onto
Melancthon Road SW 2, also named Veterans Highway.
This
road runs alongside the old TG&B Railway line. Notice the
3-digit numbering of the sideroads. Soon you will come across a virtual forest of windmills on both sides of the road. The monsters may be the answer to our future energy problems but they certainly dominate the scene.
Continue north on Melancthon SW 2.
About 6 km north of
Dundalk
is the old SS 2 Proton schoolhouse, now a private house. This
school was also known as the Acheson School and is actually the
school's third building. The first school was a log building
built on Andrew Rowe's farm and heated by a large box stove. The
second school was a frame building about 24 feet square with
three windows on each side. This third school building dated
1889 is solid brick and was heated by a furnace, though, now it
is a private residence, it probably has modern heating. It cost
$1239.45 to build. What it cost the present owners is not known.
SS2
Proton Schoolhouse
At the T-junction with the 200 sideroad, turn left.
If
you want to see what the old railway line looked like, stop at
the place where it crosses the road and look along the line.
After crossing the railway line, turn right onto the
continuation of West Back Line. Turn right onto the 190 sideroad
(Grey Road 34) to Proton Station.
Just as you leave the village, look for
the old railway line as a bump in the road. The actual station
was located on the right side of the road on the far side of the
railway line.
Turn left onto Highway 10 toward Markdale.
Just
after you cross the Saugeen River, look for the old house dated
1889 on the left. This is the Stinson House. Shortly after you cross the Saugeen River,
you come to the South Grey Inn, a nice place to stop for lunch
or a coffee. The restaurant serves diner-style food.
Stinson House 1889
Continue on Highway 10 to Flesherton.
The T&S Road crossed the old Durham Road
at a place then called Artemesia Corners. The village had a
flour mill, a blacksmith's shop, two churches, two taverns, and
one physician when W. K. Flesher, after whom the village was
later named, arrived in 1853 to build a grist and sawmill on the
Boyne River.
Aaran
Munshaw had participated with Samuel Lount and William Lyon
Mackenzie in the Upper Canada Rebellion in 1837. Lount was
hanged and Mackenzie was lucky to escape. Munshaw had a hard
time for a while and eventually moved from the Toronto area to
Flesherton. He built the Munshaw House in 1864 at a strategic
corner of the T&S Road and the Durham Road, and it remained in
the family until 1964. Munshaw House is still there; it is the
old building on the southeast corner of Highway 10 and Grey Road
4. It is now called the Munshaw House Village Inn, and is both a
restaurant and a bed-and-breakfast inn. If you want to have
lunch or dinner there, you must go Thursday through Sunday,
because the restaurant is closed Monday through Wednesday.
Munshaw
House
In the centre of Flesherton, turn right onto Grey Road 4.
You are now driving along the old pioneer
Durham Road.
About 3 km from Flesherton, turn left onto Grey Road 13,
signposted Eugenia Falls Provincial Park.
Eugenia started with a gold rush in 1853. A deer hunter, Mr.
Brownlee, reported finding gold at the Falls; the gold turned
out to be "fool's gold" but some would-be miners stayed on as
farmers. One of a party of surveyors sent to survey the area was
French and it was at his suggestion that the village be named
after the French Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. A
spelling error resulted in the village's present name.
In Eugenia, turn right onto Canrobert Street, signposted Eugenia
Lake.
Notice the old Orange Lodge building on
your left just after you turn onto Canrobert Street. The Orange
Lodge building has a sign LOL No 1118 (Loyal Orange Lodge Number
1118). The Orange Lodge was a militant Protestant organization
that was very powerful in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
Many small communities had Orange Lodges, which were used as
village halls, providing social, religious, and political
functions for the people in the community.
At
the end of Canrobert Street is Eugenia Lake. There is a parking
area where you may want to stop and picnic while you look at the
lake. The lake is a man-made reservoir created in the early
1900s to feed a hydroelectric generator, but today it provides
an opportunity for fishing, water sports, and other recreational
activities.
Eugenia
Lake
Drive back down Canrobert Street and turn right onto Grey Road
13.
If
you want to visit Eugenia Falls Provincial Park, turn left onto
Pelliser Road. The park provides an opportunity for a pit stop
if you need one.
Eugenia
Falls
Keep going along Grey Road 13, with its views on the left over
the Beaver Valley and the ski runs.
There
is a view and a picnic area at the Beaver Valley Lookout on the
left but conveniences are only open in the summer. In the Fall,
this is a spectacular place to see the Fall colours.
Continue along Grey Road 13 to Kimberley.
The first settlers in the Kimberley area
arrived by canoe, paddling up the Beaver River from Thornbury.
They were the Wickens, Hurds, and McGees and they arrived in the
1850s. Mrs McGee was the first woman in the Cuckoo Valley, the
area of the Beaver Valley below Eugenia Falls. Now Kimberley is
the centre of a large four-season tourist industry.
On the right as you drive through the village is a mill, now a wine store. This mill is the Plewes Mill and dates from 1877. The wine store has a deed of indenture for the sale from John C Gilray to William Plewes. William Plewes was the
uncle of Simon Plewes, who ran a mill in Terra Cotta in 1859, and the
brother of John Plewes. John, a Yorkshireman, ran the mill in Acton before his death in 1851, and his wife built the Plewes House that still stands in Terra Cotta. There was a mill on the Kimberley site in 1865 but it burned down, which may have led to its sale in 1877. The man who sold the mill to William Plewes, John Gilray, was born in Benvie, Angus, Scotland in 1838 and moved to this area before 1864. After selling the mill site in Kimberley, he and his family moved again, this time all the way to Colorado.
Kimberley Mill
Opposite the mill is an interesting building. The Old Store on the right dates from 1877.
Old Kimberley Store
Just after Kimberley, turn left onto Grey Road 7.
After you turn, you will cross the Beaver
River and, just after you do, you will see the signpost for the
Talisman Resort, a well-known four-season resort.
Continue along Grey Road 7 until you come to the little
community of Epping.
Epping was a small crossroads community
founded by Scottish settlers in the 1850s. At one time it had a
post office, a blacksmith, and two churches. The post office
closed in 1921 and the last church, the Mount Hope Methodist
Church, also closed and was boarded up years ago.
Mount Hope Church, Epping
Just after Epping, turn right at the Epping Lookout to see the
historical marker for John Muir.
Muir was a Scotsman who emigrated to
Wisconsin in 1849 aged 11. In 1864, he set out to walk around
Canada West (as Ontario was then called), following what is now
the Bruce Trail. He stopped here to visit his brother Daniel who
was living near Meaford. In 1866, Muir returned to the US, where
he became a leading figure in the conservation movement. From
the marker, you have a spectacular view out over the Beaver
Valley.
Continue north along Grey Road 7.
At Griersville, going off to the right,
you can see the last remaining section of the Old Mail Road that
went from Meaford, through Griersville, Heathcote, Ravenna, to
Singhampton and beyond. Only the section from Griersville to
Heathcote remains.
Continue north on Grey Road 7.
As you get closer to Meaford, you can see
views of the headland of the Meaford Tank Range to the left,
Georgian Bay ahead, and the coast toward Collingwood to the
right.
As you enter Meaford, keep straight on at the intersection with
Highway 26 and drive to the harbour.
At the harbour, take some time to walk along the harbour
wall to see the lake.
Meaford Harbour
Description of Meaford
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