Along the Portage Road
From Chippawa to Queenston along the Portage Road of 200 years ago
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Before the Revolutionary War that gained independence for the Americans, the portage around the Niagara Falls was on the eastern side of the Niagara River. It ran from Fort Schlosser, at the foot of present Portage Road in Niagara Falls NY, along the present Portage Road, and then through Lewiston to Fort Niagara. The east bank of the river including Fort Schlosser and Fort Niagara remained in British hands until 1792 but British authorities became increasingly anxious about the portage, fearing that it would eventually revert back to the Americans. In 1790, the British decided that a new portage was to be created on the west bank of the river. Up to that point, the Stedman family had had the contract for transporting goods along the eastern portage. When the government decided to open up the western portage route, Philip Stedman entered a bid for the contract but was not successful. The winning bid was from a group including Robert Hamilton and John Burch. This group used a system in which they hired local small businessmen as subcontractors to portage goods, so spreading the wealth around. Everyone gained from this system, not the least being Hamilton, who went on to become one of the wealthiest men in Upper Canada before his untimely death in 1809. The Portage Road initially extended from the property of John Burch, a former Butler's Ranger, on the north bank of the Chippawa Creek (Welland River) to the property formerly claimed by Isaac Dolson, another former Butler's Ranger, and now owned by Samuel Street in what is now Queenston. The present Portage Road generally follows the original route except in two places. The route from the bridge at Chippawa to Oak Hall is the route of the road after it was moved westward in the early 1800s to take it further from the Niagara River for added security. The original route ran along the riverbank, more or less along the route of the Niagara Parkway, and is covered by the Parkway trip. At the other end of the Portage Road, the original route passes under the reservoir for the power station and is difficult to travel unless you have a submarine. This trip takes you instead along an alternative route to St David's and Queenston. The present route passes through the built-up area around Niagara Falls so you may want to park at times to look at some of the interesting and historic places. Some of the places you will pass are:
Starting the trip-ChippawaFrom the north end of the bridge at Chippawa, drive straight across the traffic lights onto the Portage Road. This is not the original route of the Portage Road. This route was adopted in the early 1800s when the military remodelled the road for military purposes and decided to take it further from the Niagara River so that it would not be as easy a target for American canons. As you drive north, you pass Marineland and its kissing dolphins. The land gradually rises up a ridge that eventually overlooks Niagara Falls and provides a base for all those luxury hotels that dominate the skyline. Before you reach the hotels, you pass Burning Springs Hill. At one time, at the bottom of the ridge, there was a spring that also gave off a noxious gas that could be ignited and then burned for a short time. The spring has now vanished. Burning Springs Hill is where the original route of the Portage Road joins the present road. Just past Burning Springs Hill, the road swings to the left and you must turn right to follow Portage Road. At this intersection, there is a gate for Oak Hall on the right. This is the headquarters for the Niagara Parks Commission but it has a long and distinguished history. If you have time, it is worth a visit if only to see the old paintings of Niagara Falls. The building at the entrance gate is now the clubhouse for the golf course but was originally the gatehouse and guesthouse for the hall.
The first house on the site was the home of Colonel Thomas Clark, one of the owners of the mills at the bottom of the hill. Clark was a leading businessman and was the commanding officer of the 2nd Regiment of Lincoln Militia in the War of 1812. The mansion he built here was called Clark Hill. When he died, he left the house to Thomas Clark Street, the son of his partner, Samuel Street Jr. TC Street never married and left the house to his nephew, Sutherland Macklem. The property passed through several hands until it was bought by Harry Oakes, a mining millionaire. Oakes replaced the house with the present mansion, Oak Hall, before leaving Canada in a snit over taxes. A short time later, Oakes, now Sir Harry, moved to the Bahamas where he was murdered. He might have been better off paying his taxes. The mansion was bought by the Niagara Parks Commission in 1959, and was refitted as its headquarters building in 1982. Three rooms have been kept in their original state. The living room is now a meeting room and has 12 chairs from the visit of Edward, Prince of Wales and later Duke of Windsor, in 1919. The panelling is believed to have come from Henry VIII's palace at Hampton Court. The other two rooms that have been kept are the reception area and the dining room. You can visit the mansion Mondays through Fridays between 8.45 AM and 4 PM, except when meetings are scheduled. After Oak Hall, follow the road as it continues to climb with a railway now on the left side of the road. When the railway was built, the road was rerouted and was only restored to its original route through the generosity of Harry Oakes. As you drive along this section of the road, look for the cairn on the right. This cairn is for the City of the Falls Project.
This project was started in 1835 by a group of businessmen to sell lots on which Americans could build summer cottages. At that time, Americans who wanted to visit the Falls had to cross the Niagara River from Buffalo, travel by coach to Niagara Falls, where they would stay in Canadian hotels such as the Clifton House, the Ontario House, and the Pavilion. By building a summer cottage, they could save the cost of the hotels and coach ride, and perhaps make some money by renting out the cottage. Unfortunately for the project, the railways came along and made it easier for Americans to visit the Falls and return home in a day, and so the project wound up in 1837. But the streets of Niagara Falls are named for the members of the group: Clark, Dixon, Murray, Buchanan, Allan, Dunn, and Robinson. At the new casino, the road turns left to traffic lights. On the right side just before the intersection is the Oakes Inn. On this site in 1814 was Mrs. Wilson's Inn. When the American troops arrived here after the Battle of Chippawa, they questioned Mrs. Wilson about the size of the British forces located in the area. Whether by accident or design, her estimate was double the actual number. This was enough reason to slow down the Americans and gave General Drummond time to get his troops ready for the Battle of Lundy's Lane. William Forsyth bought the tavern in 1821 and rebuilt it as the Pavilion, a three-storey hotel that was the best-known hotel in Niagara until it burned down in 1839. Stay in the left lane and continue straight across the intersection. At the next lights, Stanley Street, continue straight across onto Main Street. Continue over the traffic lights at Murray Street. On the right side of Main Street between Murray and Robinson Streets is 6218 Main Street. This site was formerly the home of James Forsyth, Butler's Ranger, partner of Robert Hamilton in the Portage Road Syndicate, and father of William Forsyth. Forsyth's home burned down and was replaced by this building, which was once Duffy's Hotel and Anderson's Hotel but is now a private residence.
Further along, on the right, is Patterson's Funeral Home. This was once the home and factory of Allanson Ross, a carriage maker. He bought this lot in 1826 from William Forsyth.
Just before the traffic lights at Lundy's Lane, turn right onto Peer Street. On the right about halfway down the street is a blue bulding. This is the old British Methodist Episcopal Church, now rededicated to the memory of Nathaniel Dett. The church began life one week after the Battle of Lundy's Lane as part of a Black Methodist mission circuit. The building itself was erected in 1836 at the corner of Murray Street and Allendale Avenue, about fifty metres away. When the British Methodist Church was founded in 1856, the building was moved to its present site.
Turn left onto Grey Avenue. Drive to the end and turn left onto Ferry Street. This road once ended at the ferry, which was located about where the Maid of the Mist terminal is now. On the right is the Concord Motor Inn. The old part of this building was built by William Russell, a stone mason and brewer, and dates from 1851. The property just to the west of Russell's home housed his brewery, which at the time was Drummondville's largest industry. On the left past the motor inn is an old building with a fountain in front. This is the museum. At the traffic lights, continue straight ahead up Lundy's Lane. On the left as you climb the hill is a church and a cemetery. On the right at the top of the hill is the old Adam Fralick Tavern dating from about 1836. This tavern was built at a time when there were towers here for people to view the Lundy's Lane Battlefield.
At the traffic lights, turn left onto Drummond Road, then turn left onto Buchner Place. Park near the church and cemetery. Notice the house on the south side of the little square. This house dates from 1799 and was the home of Christopher Buchner, a Loyalist and a former wheelwright for the Stedmans on the old east portage. He bought the land from his future father-in-law, James Forsyth, and gave a piece of the land to be used as a common burial ground. This land is now the cemetery and contains the graves of the Buchners and the Forsyths.
This cemetery is the oldest in the area and contains a marker for the Battle of Lundy's Lane as well as the graves of many important people. The cemetery is the site of the British battery, which was crucial to the success of the British in stopping the American advance from Chippawa. Many lives were lost in this area of the battlefield in 1814 and many soldiers were buried in mass graves in this cemetery. Also here is a marker for John Burch and his wife, who were the first buried here and whose graves are now lost, and the graves of Samuel Street Jr, his wife, and son, Thomas Clark Street. Also here is the grave of Laura Secord and her husband James.
Drive back to Drummond Road, named for Lieutenant-General Sir Gordon Drummond, the commanding officer of British forces in Upper Canada and victor at Lundy's Lane. Turn right and drive along Drummond Road to the traffic lights at Lundy's Lane. Turn right and then turn left onto Main Street (Portage Road). Drive along Main Street to number 4891, on the left before you reach Morrison Street. This is the old John Thompson home. This house was built about 1825 for the son of John Thom(p)son, one of three brothers who settled the land now under the reservoir further up Portage Road. Archibald Thomson was the first to travel across the Atlantic Ocean to America in 1773. He fought in Butler's Rangers and was granted land north of the Whirlpool. He was joined in Canada by his brothers James and John. John's land was where the Niagara Parks Whirlpool Golf Course is now situated. John was, like many Scots, careful with money. After Archibald had a house built for him, John had an identical house built, thus saving money on the design. His son must have inherited his father's frugality because this house looks identical to old photographs of Archibald's house, now alas destroyed. The original roof has been replaced with one that is much steeper.
Continue along Portage Road to Morrison Street. At Morrison Street, Portage Road once carried on straight across. Since the canal for the power station was constructed, however, the road straight across Morrison Street has become a cul-de-sac. So turn left onto Morrison Street and then turn right onto Portage Road. After turning onto Portage Road, park and look over the wall on the right side of the road. The canal supplies water from the Niagara River, by way of the Welland River, to the gigantic power stations located at Queenston. This project involved digging this deep canal through rock and digging out the Welland River so that water would flow up the river instead of down. If you look across the canal, you can see the other side of Portage Road, which was broken by the canal and never bridged. Carry on along Portage Road across Thorold Stone Road to O'Neil Street. This street is the southern boundary of the old village of Stamford. Turn right to keep on the Portage Road. After you turn right, you pass an old church on the right. Find a place to park because this is a very historic area. The church is St John's Church. This church was built on land that was part of a grant made to John Burch. The land was bought in 1820 by Captain Robert Henry Dee, aide-de-camp to Sir Peregrine Maitland when he was Lieutenant-Governor. Capt. Dee's house is further along Portage Road. Capt. Dee donated land for the church, which was built in 1821. He died in 1833 and is buried in the graveyard. If the church is open, take a look inside.
As you come out of the church, right in front of you is the only village green in Canada. This triangular area of grass was preserved by the Dee family for the enjoyment of the people of Stamford from 1821 to 1908. Then it was sold to the village by Dr. John Dee for $1000.
Turn right and walk to the old tree. This is the Old Stamford Oak Tree and is older than the Portage Road. It was here long before Capt. Dee or John Burch owned the land.
Walk across the green to the old white building at 3289 St Paul Avenue. The central part of the house was the home and store of Hugh Alexander and dates from before 1817, when Alexander died. Alexander was an old friend of John Burch from before the Revolutionary War. After the war, he moved to Niagara where he started a business. Unfortunately, his business was burned during the War of 1812 so, after that war, he moved to Stamford where he set up in business again. The centre part of the house is probably his house and store. The walls of the house are of timber lined with brick, characteristic of buildings dating from the early 1800s.
Return to the car and drive along Portage Road to number 3252. The part of the house with the front door is Capt. Dee's house. The rest of the house was added later.
Drive along Portage Road to Church's Lane and turn left. The house on the northwest corner is the former Whirlpool Inn built by Andrew Rorbach about 1800. Besides being a tavern, it was also a polling station during elections, and was the scene of many social occasions, such as weddings and balls. The balls were held on the second floor, which was also used for meetings, until it became a residence in the 1940s and the second floor became bedrooms. Andrew Rorbach was born in New Jersey and, in addition to being an innkeeper, became a Lieutenant-Colonel of the 2nd Lincoln Regiment.
At St Paul Avenue, turn right. St Paul Avenue is the eastern boundary of the old village of Stamford. Some of the street names have changed: Russell Street was formerly Hunter Street, Stamford Green Drive was Market Street, and McMicking Street was Drummond Street. If you have time, this is a beautiful area for a stroll. At the next set of traffic lights, continue straight ahead. On the left, just across the intersection is a large stone cairn. This indicates the former home of Sir Peregrine Maitland, Lieutenant-Governer of Upper Canada from 1818. This land was once owned by Gilbert Tice, captain of Butler's Rangers. Maitland bought the property in 1822 and built a home, Stamford Cottage, here. Maitland had been one of the Duke of Wellington's officers and had been at the famous ball given by the Duke of Richmond in Brussels on what turned out to be the eve of the Battle of Waterloo. The Iron Duke and his men had to hurriedly depart from the ball when they heard that Napoleon's Army was coming. But before that, all Maitland had eyes for was The Duke of Richmond's daughter Sarah, whom he eventually married. When the Richmond was named Governot-General of Canada, he arranged for Maitland to be Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada. Not being very fond of the capital, York, Maitland bought the land here and built a summer residence. This cottage he gradually enlarged until it had 22 rooms. The house burned down after he left and all trace of it has now disappeared. Incidentally, the Duke of Richmond's tenure as GG wasn't long. In 1819, while on a tour of inspection, he was bitten by a rabid fox and died. Continue down the hill under the railway bridge toward the bridge for Highway 405. On the left just before you reach the bridge was the site of the Stamford Spring Brewery. This was started in 1836 by an English immigrant named John Sleeman. He later sold the brewery and moved to Guelph where he opened another brewery. The new brewery has survived; you may have heard of it; it's still called Sleeman's Brewery. On the other side of the road bridge, the road changes its name to Four Mile Creek Road. As you might expect, this road follows the Four Mile Creek. From the early days of Upper Canada, the creeks in the Niagara Peninsula were named for the number of miles from the mouth to the Niagara River. So the mouth of the Four Mile Creek is about four miles from the Niagara River. Peter Secord, the former Butler's Ranger who was the first settler here, owned all of the land on both sides of the road to the crossroads at St David's. As you drive north, you drive past a plant nursery called Orchard Glen on the left. Look for the next house on the right at 137 Four Mile Creek Road. That is the mill built by Lt. David Brass for Peter Secord in 1782-3. It has been considerably renovated and is now a residence, but the wooden structure of the mill can still be seen in the basement. This was the first grist mill built in Ontario.
You are now in the village of St David's. Further north at 215 Four Mile Creek Road is an old stone 1½-storey house. The basement, which you can see from the right (southern) end of the house is the remains of Peter Secord's first house and was built in 1782-3 at the same time as the mill was being built. The north half of the house was built a little later than, and separate from, the first house as the second home of Peter Secord. The southern half, above the basement, was added in about 1830 and joined the previous houses together into one house.
The
store on the southwest corner of the crossroads where Four Mile
Creek Road joins York Road (now the S&B Antique Store) was the
former William Woodruff general store built in about 1820.
Across the street, at 239, is the old Wiley Hotel built in 1823. Until 1961, the remains of an old mill were in the rear of this building. This mill was the companion to the Secord Mill at number 137. It was built by Lt. Brass at about the same time and was the sawmill that supplied much of the wood for the other mill and for other buildings in the area. It, too, was operated by the Secords.
At York Road, turn right.The road crosses the creek and on the other side is a small lane going off to the right. This is Paxton Lane and was the original line of the aboriginal trail that ran along the creek. On the west corner of Paxton Lane is Locust Hall, a magnificent old mansion built for Richard (King Dick) Woodruff about 1823. This was Woodruff's second house; his first still stands at 1385 York Road and was built about 1815.
Further down the lane, at number 46, is the house of Major David Secord, a former sergeant in Butler's Rangers, who bought his uncle's mills and land in 1799 and had the village, St David's, named after him. This is actually Peter Secord's third house and was built about 1785. Across York Road from Locust Hall is the Presbyterian Church. At the roadside near the church is a stone marker indicating that this was the headquarters for de Rottenberg in 1812. Major-General Francis de Rottenberg was the successor to Major-General Sheaffe as Administrator of Upper Canada and commander of the military after Sheaffe was removed following the occupation of York in 1813. The Polish-born soldier had fought in the French and Polish Armies before joining the British Army. He was famous for writing the first manual for training riflemen.
Continue east along York Road. On the right, just past Progressive Avenue, is a marker for Sheaffe's Climb. After General Brock was killed at the Battle of Queenston Heights, command went to General Sheaffe, who, on hearing of Brock's death, gathered his troops at Fort George and raced toward Queenston. Instead of charging straight into Queenston, Sheaffe circled around and climbed up the escarpment at the point where this marker is located. After climbing to the top, Sheaffe formed his men into order and marched at the Americans, who were outnumbered and had nowhere to go. Colonel Winfield Scott, the American commander on the spot, was forced to surrender.
At the stop sign at the junction with the Niagara Parkway, continue straight on. York Street, as the road is now called, continues past Mackenzie House and ends just past Front Street. At one time, the road would have carried on up the escarpment as the Portage Road. You have reached the end of the Portage Road and the end of the trip.
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