Map of Queenston

In 1780, several former members of Butler’s Rangers were given permission to cross the Niagara river and settle on the west bank. These men were too old to continue as Rangers or had large families and so, with the need to feed the refugees arriving at Fort Niagara, Governor Haldimand had given permission for them to farm on the former Mississauga lands. Peter Secord settled at what became St David's and his mill and his houses still stand there. Isaac Dolson settled on land that was to become Queenston. Unlike Secord, Dolson did not remain on his land. By 1784, when the area was surveyed, Dolson had sold the land to a speculator, Samuel Street Sr. and had moved to the Thames River.

In 1788, Robert Hamilton received permission to establish a portage on the west bank of the river. The main portage, however, remained on the east bank, where the Stedman family had the contract for carrying goods around Niagara Falls. The west bank of the Niagara River has steep sides except at a few locations, one of which was at the site of Queenston, and here Hamilton built storehouses. Or rather, the government built the storehouses for him. At that time, the ownership of the land had not been settled and so the government did not want people to own land or property on the west bank. Peter Secord and the other settlers were only tenants of the government and the government had built the mills that Secord ran at St David's. So the government built the storehouses that Hamilton used at Queenston, Chippawa, and Fort Erie. Then, in 1790, the new governor, Lord Dorchester, decided that, with the looming probability that Britain would have to surrender the east bank of the river to the Americans, the official portage should be shifted to the west bank. So tenders were called. Only two were submitted, one from the Stedmans and one from Hamilton and his partners, John Burch, George Forsyth, and Archibald Cunningham. Hamilton’s syndicate won and soon more substantial storehouses and wharves appeared at Queenston.

Hamilton built a stone house on the top of the cliff overlooking his landing area and the place became known as West Landing, to distinguish it from Stedman’s place called Landing on the east bank. Lt Gov Simcoe, when he arrived in 1792, re-established his old regiment, the Queen’s Rangers, and built quarters for a detachment of them at West Landing. Whether it was for this detachment or in honour of the Queen, West Landing started to be known as Queen’s Town and then Queenston.

In 1797, Samuel Street Sr. had his land at Queenston surveyed and the residential lots were sold at a cost of $100 to $300 each. Commercial lots were leased at 6% of the purchase price per annum. Soon Queenston became the business centre for the growing Niagara region.

This changed with the War of 1812. One of the early battles was the Battle of Queenston Heights, in which General Brock was killed. In that battle, Robert Hamilton's house was destroyed by shellfire and many houses were damaged. The next year, 1813, saw the invasion by the Americans and the capture of Fort George. During the period of occupation, American officers were billeted in those houses that were habitable, and this led to the feat of Laura Secord. She overheard some officers talking about a surprise expedition against Lt. FitzGibbon's Grey 'Uns, and she set out to warn him. After a harrowing journey through the night, she finally reached FitzGibbon at his base at DeCew's House. As the legend has it, her warning led to the victory at the Battle of Beaver Dams. FitzGibbon certainly acknowledged her role but it is likely that he knew something was up already.

In 1814, the Americans invaded again. When they withdrew in July, they set fire to St David's and Queenston; St David's was destroyed (except for Peter Secord's mill which was used as a hospital) and Queenston suffered major damage. Due to the effects of cannon fire and arson, Queenston was in ruins by the end of the war. It took ten years after the war to rebuild all of the property damaged and Queenston never really recovered its stature as the business centre of Niagara.

Places to see in Queenston are:

• Laura Secord House

  Laura Secord House

  The home during the War of 1812 of Laura Secord and her husband James, this is one of the most famous houses in Ontario. It has been restored and is open for viewing during the summer. It is owned by the Laura Secord chocolate company.

• William Lyon Mackenzie's Printery

  Mackenzie's Printery

  The original house that stood here was the home and store of William Lyon Mackenzie for little more than a year from 1823 to 1824. It was here that he first published the Colonial Advocate, clamouring for reform of the political system. The house is copy of the original, which was allowed to go to ruins over the years. The trees in the front of the house are original as a plaque describes.

• Willowbank

  Willowbank

  This house was built by Alexander Hamilton, Robert Hamilton's fourth son, in 1834. Alexander Hamilton was the first mayor of Queenston and Upper Canada's first postmaster. When he died at age 45, it was rumoured that he died of a heart attack brought on by the botched hanging of James Morreau, a rebel leader. The inept hangman ran away and left the job of cutting Morreau down to the sheriff, Hamilton, who could never forget the experience. He died a year later. Willowbank was in the Hamilton family until 1934. It has been restored and is now owned, ironically, by a restoration company. The house was named after a grove of willow trees that once stood at the front of it.

• McClosky House

  McClosky House

  This house, at the northwest corner of Dumfries and Queenston Streets, was built before 1821, perhaps by former Butler's Ranger Elijah Phelps. The name is for the present owner.

• Dee House

  Dee House

  This is another Hamilton house, having been owned by Robert Hamilton Jr., the oldest son of Robert Hamilton. It remained in the Hamilton family until 1954. One of Hamilton's descendants, Jane, married Thomas Dee and gave the house its name. This red-bricked house fronts right onto Queenston Street and across an alley (actually Dee Road) from Willowbank. It is hidden somewhat behind a row of trees except in winter. There is reputed to be a tunnel linking Willowbank to the Dee House.

• South Landing Inn

  South Landing Inn

  This frame building on Kent Street was built before 1827 by Thomas Dickson, brother of William Dickson, and one of the cousins brought to Canada by Robert Hamilton. Thomas Dickson was himself a prominent merchant, politician, and soldier. He fought with distinction in the War of 1812 as lieutenant-colonel in the 2nd Lincoln Militia commanded by Thomas Clark. The building has been used as a hotel under many names since 1883. It was once owned by the Bannisters, who now own the old Peter Secord Mill in St David's. For more information about the inn, go to http://www.tourismniagara.com/where_to_stay_all.html?&tx_cabadsearch_pi1%5BshowUid%5D=898.

• RiverBrink

  While the house itself is not particularly historic, it houses the Weir Collection of paintings, drawings, prints, sculpture, and books collected by the late SE Weir. The collection has many pieces relating to the history of the Niagara peninsula, such as a painting of Simcoe as a young man and a painting of the Battle of Queenston Heights. For more information about RiverBrink, go to http://www.riverbrink.org.

• The Landing

  The Landing (Boat Ramp)

  This is about where Robert Hamilton's landing was located. Because the river banks have been eroded over the years, the exact location may have been eaten by the river. This landing is used as a boat ramp.

• Glencairn

  This house is yet another Hamilton house. It was built by Robert Hamilton's son John about 1834, the same time as Willowbank. John was in the shipping business and owned several steamboats between 1824 and 1861. The house is a 2-storey Colonial-style house with verandahs on the ground and first floors, and six pillars. The house's architect was John Latshaw, who was also responsible for Willowbank in Queenston and Ruthven down the Grand River.